Islwyn Ramblers

Grand Designs - and not a McCloud in the sky! - 6 March 2010

New faces and new places and Millionaires Mansions, oh, and some mud just for a change. We're on the moneyed side of Newport where houses start at 'expensive' and then the sky's the limit. We soon find some mud, posh mud, mind you, only to meet some locals at the end who gleefully point out the dry route... Across to the right, Pencoed Castle is 11th century Norman and well worth a photo, across to the left is 21st century Vodafone and not worth a first glance, let alone a second. But then the 'Ahhhh' factor kicks in, big time, two little lambs, only a few minutes old and still in need of a lick-down. So again, 'Ahhhhh'.

Penhow Castle is also 11th century Norman but you can have too much of a good thing so no photo of it this time. Across the A48 and limekilns, charcoal burners and quarries bring a different view of the area, plus a couple of very old abandoned vehicle, one an old 'Thames' van from the 60's. Didn't I learn to drive in one of those? But back into beautiful houses, the next vast stone-built specimen has its own duck lake, it's far too superior to be called a pond!



Down through a muddy stream and muddy field where one of our 'New Faces' gets closely acquainted with the mud - that'll teach you to wear new trousers! But rusting farm machinery in a wood gives way to a rural chocolate box cottage with snowdrops, crocus and heathers all in flower. More, woods, more mud and lunch beside a stream. So very restful.... And having lulled us with a peaceful stroll so far, the hard work begins, a steep climb up to Caer Licyn and its Iron Age fort. But thats not the gem, its Kemeys Folly.... A few million pounds worth of 18th century residence, as seen on 'Grand Designs', honoured by Kevin McCloud, and today - walked past by Islwyn Ramblers..... You really can't get more famous than that!

I've forgotten the headline, it was good, too! - 20 February 2010

D'oh! I thought of a perfect headline during the walk... Can I remember it now? No, not a chance. Goodness knows what I'll be like when I'm old - no comments from you lot, thank you! And it was a fabulous walk, too! loads of sun and enough snow to make it interesting. We followed the stream with the lovely name - Nant Cae Dudwg - down from the Llanfabon Inn through the woods over old, rickety stiles to the old, rickety bridge. No trolls underneath it but it's so old and rickety that our membership would have decreased rapidly if we'd tried to cross it! So on down to the next, more solid bridge where two bravely went exploring for a route that avoided the stream on the other side, easy to cross if you're wearing green wellies but not so easy for mere mortals. The two phone to say there's no way over so they're going to catch us up when they appear behind us 'just like that'. Magic! The trees are frosty and the streams are steaming in the sun so a good spot to break for coffee.



Through the terraces of Cilfynydd and uphill to the slopes of Eglwsilan. The lane was its usual icy self so we headed across country, steeper but a little surer underfoot. We reach the track over the top but have to pull over to let the sheep's 'ice-cream van' past - a tractor and three bales of hay. The sight of all that tasty hay attracts the sheep just like a flock of sheep, except one, who seems to be playing mazes in the snow. It puts us in mind of lunch and a fallen telegraph pole makes a good bench to enjoy the views up the valley to the snowy Beacons in the distance. Over the summit is the site of prehistoric Carneddi Llwydion but they're not too impressive on the ground, just a low heap of stones but they show up better from the air on Google Earth where you can see they are circles. A long gentle descent brings us back to the Inn and a very tasty ham roll and hot coffee.

A quarter of Monmouthshire Mixture, please - 14 February 2010

According to Profs Holland and Thomas of Islwyn University, "The free and independent Shire of Monmouth has the most amazing variety of beautiful scenery to be seen anywhere." Well, who am I to argue, they'll only make my life a misery, so I won't. But we certainly saw the variety today.... Setting off up Cwm-nant-ddu we pick our way through the desolation left behind after the coal ran out, the ruins of pithead baths, washeries and the monument to the 180 men and boys who never came home. On the other side of the valley are the shafts, looking like giant wishing wells. It seems I've been rushing (not like me at all) so we stop for coffee with a half-mile deep hole under us! Then we plunge into sunlit ancient woodland, deep leaves and green moss and pre-coal charcoal burners platforms. At the top we've crossed over into the Cwm-ffrwd-oer valley and the ruins of a large farm, house and barns, wouldn't want to here in the dark, it's got to be haunted. Out of the woods and onto the moor and lunch in the sun...



We enter the canyons, old opencast workings, quite silent, where you feel Cowboys and Indians could ambush you at any time. The walk's been pretty mud-free up to now but there's enough here to satisfy those with withdrawal symptoms. The rock faces close in and we pass the spot where the last pit pony finished work in 1999. And out of the canyons into farmland, fresh air, country smells, chickens, ducks and these two horses, who wanted to chat over the stable door. The bridleway becomes a country lane and seems to be very straight, almost as if it's Roman, and indeed it is! In a remote section the original-ish cobblestones are still in place. So we end the day walking on 2000 years of history. That's a fair few Ramblers, then.....

And today - another shaggy donkey story - 6 February 2010

Not too much mud today, in fact, quite Springlike. Clytha Castle stands proudly looking out over the Usk Valley - and Islwyn Ramblers, as they toil up the hill towards it. Last week the snow dropped, this week there's snowdrops, big clumps and little clumps standing out amonst the dead leaves. After the last few weeks we're experts on mud and we sail over the one pitiful excuse for a mudpatch in front of us as if it doesn't exist. And into a nice, clean field complete with an old, shaggy donkey, very friendly and quite delighted to be given an early hot cross bun. Coed-y-bwnydd is an iron age fortress, that once contained four roundhouses, also mythically the home of the giant Clidda but now the ideal spot for a coffee break. If this was April there would an amazing carpet of bluebells covering the whole site. We must come again...



On down the lane and across the fields to Bettws Newydd Church and its very ancient Yew trees. The 15C church itself is an absolute gem but the one Yew tree, allegedly 1000 years old, with a new tree growing through the middle is awesome... will we still be rambling around it in another 1000yrs?? Down past a relic from the war - a crumbling pillbox - defending us from unseen enemies and so to the riverbank. Puts me in mind of 'Wind in the Willows', the slow river lazily flowing down to Newport and - look - There I am, fast asleep, sitting outside Trostrey Lodge, bottle of beer in hand - zzzzzzzzzzz

But Officer, we weren't doing more than 4 mph, honestly - 23 January 2010

The snow has gone but it's left very muddy and waterlogged fields and paths. We are supposed to walk around the reservoir, we might have been drier walking through it. Undaunted, on we go with the sun beginning to shine on pretty, cottagy scenes, at least as far as a sign saying 'Bull'. Is this a comment on our conversations? or is there something horny in the field? You go first - no, you - No, you, you're on committee.... anyway they're only cows without udders. and back to some more pretty, cottagy scenes where the sheep come racing up to us, in the mistaken belief we're going to feed them but how did three llamas get in on the act?



At the top of the hill, the Vale of Usk spreads out below us, all swirly, misty and mysterious, gosh, I'll be getting all poetic soon.... So a good place to stop for lunch before we tackle one of our more interesting paths, so heavily overgrown that I have to get my clippers out to stop folk taking their eyes out. And as an added obstacle, there's a full, flowing stream rushing down the middle along with us. At least it slows us down so no chance of a speeding fine and 3 points on our Ramblers card ! The walk back up the Sor Brook to the reservoir is more of a paddle through the low-lying fields, they should be growing rice. Those six miles felt more like sixty...

Why is it always a Dogstone, never a Hamsterstone? - 17 January 2010

We should have gone to Capel-y-ffyn but it was likely to be worse than the Dogstone, which we should have gone to last week. The Dogstone was bad enough. We very gingerly picked our way up the hill to the old railway to Varteg Top through ice, slush, snow and mud. At least the railway was flat but the 'Ramblers on ice' show continued up to the farm and round behind it. The snowdrift blocking the footpath hadn't thawed at all so all we have to do is climb the bank to the clear ground above it. As if !!!! Ramblers up, down, half way up, half way down, all in a heap. and the camera in the middle of the heap - shame! So snow in boots, socks, gloves and worse. Closing in on the trig point I almost stood on a little mouse enjoying the weak sunshine. Luckily he scurried off into the heather before my size 9's connected. And then the Dogstone. Poor old dog but where are all the courageous hamsters, budgies and goldfish? No-one ever erects memorials to their heroic deeds. So with views out over the Blancmange (no, its called the Blorenge) and the Skirrid we elegantly slither back down to the beginning.

Maggie takes us to the Dorallt Inn... and it's shut - 3 January 2010

The snow and ice is still with us, not quite so severe but we avoid Darren Lane and go up past Cwm Byr farm instead. The old oak tree has finally collapsed so here's a reminder of it in its prime-ish. We circle round Coed-y-Darren and test the weather on the Henllys ridge, not too bad, so we press on to Henllys Colliery. Its time for break but the sheep are being fed and there's a certain covering and a certain smell, not ideal. So Maggie leads us down to the Dorallt Inn but we're too early and it is firmly shut! The alternative of the kiddies playground seems strangely appropriate. A serious-sounding barking follows us down a fence but the owner turns out to be a lovely old sheepdog that just wanted to walk with us. Back over Twmbarlwm and a difficult drop down to the Scenic Drive and we brave Darren Lane. Not too bad but why is it always me that ends up on his backside?

And the judges scores are....10, 10, 10, 10        - 1 January 2010

All walks are very pleasant, some walks are "COR" but a few are Oh My Gawd - WOW!!! Today was one of those....... We set off from Goytre Wharf, not too much snow and ice, and up through the woods with this little robin for company. The path got steadily worse and at the top of the hill the pond was frozen. The local sheep decided to join 'Dancing on Ice', one doing a brilliant triple salko before she reached the bank.... and still upwards through the snow.



Out on top the snow was between 1ft to 2ft deep, but with a crisp frozen coating on top, just right to crumble under you and plunge you into icy, murky water underneath. The views over the Sugar Loaf and the Skirrid were stunning, icicles hanging off the fences and the few tufts of grass encased in ice. The low sun made the landscape look as if we were on another planet, perhaps Mars or the Moon. or trekking over the Antarctic wastes.....



Whichever direction we were heading in, the sheep were going the other way, not a good sign. But in fact it was an excellent sign!! They'd just been kicked out of the Goose and Cuckoo for Baa-d behaviour so there was plenty of room for us to enjoy bean soup and home-made rolls. Could have stayed there all day by the roaring log fire. However we still had to get down the steep, ice-covered lane back to the car park...... and I managed it - even if some of it was on my backside....

And who ate all that turkey yesterday?? - 26 December 2009

After all that high-living and rich pickings yesterday, I needed something plain and simple - so I met up with the Ramblers.... And a good crowd turned out too but they didn't get very far.... a seasonal torrential downpour had us huddling under the nearest, and pretty leafless, tree for 20 minutes. But it soon eased off and we headed up through Ochrwyth, slipping and sliding as we went. At Castle Farm the donkeys were gathered round their manger in the snow, all looking rather symbolic for the time of year. Up on the ridge the puddles got larger and muddier, little Winnie is only a King Charles Spaniel so he got a lift through the worst parts. On down one of the Five Lanes and through the woods with a lovely view of the mist and the trees. "Go on, take a photo" said someone - so, as I always do what I'm told, I did. Time for our traditional stop at the Rhiwderin Inn and back along the riverbank. There, that's walked off a few calories, now where's that turkey curry?

Christmas Dinner - followed by the Mince Pies - 19 December 2009

Thursday saw elegant ladies in their finery accompanied by suave, sophisticated gentlemen enjoying their Christmas Dinner, you wouldn't recognise them at the weekend! An excellent dinner but no mince pies. We'll soon sort that out on Saturday.....
.....which turns out to be a bright, sunny, clear and very cold day, just right for picnics. We set off through Craig y Wenallt towards Pant -yr-eos Reservoir, carefully negotiating a very cold stream and up through the fields and lanes to Twmbarlwm. Time for those mince pies and mulled this, hot that and a tot of the other plus other interesting goodies, young Elliott stops galloping about and sticks close to Mum in case he misses something......



Having taken in the views and the goodies we head down the other side and exchange greetings with a group toiling upwards. When we reach Darren Lane Mandy suddenly remembers she didn't have any ice in her drink and then, just as suddenly, finds some very close by. We are all naturally very concerned but luckily she hasn't damaged the road at all. But photo opportunities come before a fall and I end up on my backside in a very wet, very muddy, very cold puddle as we go up through the woods - but most of the others didn't notice so keep it to yourselves, won't you?... A quick snow flurry and a gentle stroll along the canal bank brings us back to the cars where I have the great presence of mind to cover the car seat before I get in. That'll earn me some Brownie points with 'Er Indoors. So....
Hugs and kisses and Merry Christmas's all round and see you all on Boxing Day.

I'm in the lead... and the cat is on one! - 12 December 2009

I did intend to lead our bunch of itinerant walkers around the less-trodden areas of Pontllanfraith but.... what with the weather and this and that, I didn't. Instead we did the canal circuit of Newport and, actually, we all enjoyed it. Starting from Barrack Hill Tunnel we went up the main Brecon line to the other side of Bettws, over the fields and up Bettws Lane. So far, so good, so clean and mud-free. But you can't expect me not to find you some mud. The path over the golf course produced a little but the lane past Ynys-y-fro Reservoirs was freshly-scrubbed. A quick look at the birds to sort out our grebes from our coots and its lunch at Fourteen Locks.



And then a car pulls up and out get a young couple (well, they could have been any age really but compared to us lot .....) followed by a long lead, followed by a magnificent Burmese cat. Off they go round the pond, climbing trees, scaring dogs and drooling over the ducks, and that was just the owners. On we go down the locks, under the M4 and up the 142 steps above Allt-yr-yn Brickworks and into the mud, I knew there was some here, somewhere. Back down past the sad foundations of the once-grand Allt-yr-yn House to the old lido, wouldn't want to swim there now! We walk beside the M4, beating most of the queueing traffic meet up with the Brecon line again and back to Barrack Hill. And just for once we had a dry and even sunny walk, amazing what I can do when I try.....
PS. as the eagle -eyed will spot, the photos are some I took earlier as todays were...well....uninspiring??

If you go down to the woods today….. - 6 December 2009

....you're sure of a big surprise - Ramblers at play !!! For once the clouds part to reveal strange blue stuff and a hazy, yellow ball appears in the sky. Of course, there's still mud up to your armpits.. We gallop up the hill at the Draethen, we can already smell dinner cooking, over the top and down past something interesting. What are they all looking at? A hole in the ground!! but actually the remains of a roman lead mine, our lot are really cultured. What now? get a camera out and one of them has to play the fool, old enough to know better, mutter, mutter.



On past the Maen Llwyd and down into the valley, the paths getting very boggy and along the lane to Ruperra where the mud-fest really begins. We slither up to the viewpoint, we can actually see the view today, last time we were in cloud! This time the cloud, black, large and heading towards us, is the view. Hurrying down the rain starts and we dash past a working party bravely trying to clear and drain the footpath. The rain eases but that hasn't helped the mud-slide back down to Draethen.

A dozen or more scruffy, wet, mud-covered monsters climb into their cars and emerge later, civilised humans be-decked in their finery, a finer body of people you won't find anywhere..... Christmas Lunch awaits and an excellent meal it was too... enlivened with great company and those flicking frogs that seemed to get everywhere. I'm not fishing it out of there!!! So thanks to the weather, thanks to the Hollybush and especially thanks to Doreen for organising it...... Roll on, next year.

The day the earth turned orange… - 21 November 2009

After a week of storms and gales only the heroic or the foolhardy would venture above Ynys Hywel, guess which category we fall into? But it was dry when we started, honestly!! We explored the old cottages at Waun Fawr, old gardens and back yards being choked by the undergrowth, strange to think of these by-gone communities leading their lives.

On past Full Moon and up the track round the back of Ynys Hywel, no sign of the piggies, cosily tucked up in their sties as they've more sense than us. Up forever, or so it seems, past amazing waterfalls until finally, the bleak, exposed top next to Twyn Cae Hugh, but who was Hugh and why did he need a twyn? I almost had lunch, my crisps scattering in the gale so if your lamb tastes of Worcester Sauce next year, you know why.

Coming back along the ridge, with the gale in our face, it decided to rain again. And how!! Why hasn't someone invented wipers for glasses? Eventually we dropped back down to Waun Fawr past one of the old coal levels, the rusty water bubbling up out of the ground had turned it bright orange. Looked like a landscape from Doctor Who. But no Daleks today, folks…

The going's good with Greater Gwent - 15 November 2009

The nights are drawing in so it's AGM time - and greater Gwent invade Maes-y-cwmmer. The massed ranks number nearly 50 and quickly divide into two groups - the downhill, mud-free route has 6 and the uphill, mud guaranteed route gathers 42. Round the back of the houses and the mud begins, quickly followed by the bog, speedily crowned with the flood. Being clever, I find the stepping-stones whilst others are splashing through. If only the stones hadn't stopped half way through it would have been a triumph….. Splish-splash….. the path uphill is little better than a trench of mud, feet either side is fine if you're long-legged, shame Lyn hasn't got that luxury, almost doing the splits. Up the lane to Mynydd-y-Grug - or the stream once known as the lane, at least it washes the mud off.

The lunch break cabaret is performed by a magnificent couple of birds of prey, soaring above us, could be red kites I'm told. The ladies complain that they're not really photogenic but I beg to disagree….. can I have the judges scores, please? Refreshed, we set off as the clouds pile up and the rain lashes down proving that my waterproof trousers are complete liars. The mud is even worse at the farm gates which takes takes my mind off the ancient beauty of the ruined farmhouses, not getting my camera out in this weather. Back at the hall, a very welcome coffee and buffet precedes the meeting. Maggie made the secretary's job sound so good that we just had to propose her!! Many thanks to Gelligaer Ramblers for being such excellent hosts.

One shower and even the horses shrink!! - 7 November 2009

An experiment today - we take the bus to the top of Varteg Hill to save our poor, old legs, if not our poor, old wallets - $2.80?? Phew. But the top of Varteg is a good place to start - its all downhill from here on. It's 'count the coalmines' time as there's over 24 on this walk and the first one gets us on the track to the head of the Varteg valley. Then back down the other side, pointing out the deep mud that I fell in last week, aren't I kind? Some fallen electricity poles by the ruins of Graig Ddu Farm bring the 'Time Team' out in us and we look around for buried treasure, no luck, of course. A quick detour brings us to what's left of Graig Wen Colliery. One of us jumps down a hole for a better look inside but, despite the temptation, we pull him out again. He did get a good photo, though. But don't try this at home...

Down and across to the Cwmsychan valley and up to the old dam. More holes and tunnels but time for lunch and the weather is looking threatening. Off past the restored row of cottages at The British and we cool off in a short, sharp shower near Cwmbyrgwm - the clouds are rolling in now. Having seen how the storm has shrunk a complete herd of horses, its time to head sharply back to Abersychan - just in case. PS if you see my ( ) pound sign - let me know - I've lost it.